Escort Turbo Information (1.9/2.0 SPI)
By marclar (aka Steve) ERDT
WE ACCEPT NO LIABILITY FOR ANY DAMAGES YOU DO.
SECTION1
-Random info
-Designing your turbo setup
-Oil feed/return
-High/Low comp?
-manifold
-Turbocharger Fundamentals
-What cars have what turbo?
Section2
-Fuel systems
section3
-BOV and Wastegates
-MBC
-Blow/Draw thru
-PCV
-Turbo Timer
-Terms
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Random Info
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Stock 1.9 injectors are 15#
Stock 2.0 injectors are 19#
If you use the 1.9 MAF with the 2.0 injectors, you will run rich. Before it was
common to use this combo. But as of late, further research has led us to
understand that the 1.9 and 2.0 MAF s are actually different. I used the combo
for about a year, then I went out and got the 2.0 MAF and it ran a grip better.
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Recommended Gauges to get when boosting
Boost Gauge
EGT Gauge
Oil Pressure Gauge
Fuel Pressure Gauge
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What is Duty Cycle
Duty Cycle is a percentage of how long an injector stays open in a given time to
deliver fuel to the motor. Duty cycles between 80 and 90 percent are considered
bad, but tolerable. 90% and higher, and you`re looking at unreliable tuning,
unpredictable results, and injector failure.
Check this sight for more random turbo info. Its geared toward Hondas but most
FI is the same.
http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html
Thanks to EvoScort for this:
Check this sight out. It has nothing to do with FI but there is A LOT of good
info on commonly asked escort stuff
http://www.cardomain.com/id/escorthowto
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Designing your turbo setup
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1) You must figure out how much boost you want to run.
2) You must figure out how much money you want to spend and work around that
3) You must decide what kind of turbo you want
4) You must decide what style manifold you want
5) Figure out what you want to do for fuel management.
6) You MUST decide what INTERCOOLER you want.
- Intercoolers are a must
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OIL FEED / RETURN
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Oil feed comes from the stock oil sender on the back of the block (1.9/2.0)
On the 1.8 motors there is a screw on the block that you can get oil from
Oil return has to be taped into the oil pan. ABOVE the oil level.
drill a hole in the oil pan the size of a ﾽ threaded barbed nipple deal. You can
use heater hose to connect the nipple to the drain thingy on the turbo with hose
clamps
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High/Low compression ratio?
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Some say that you cannot run turbo cars on a high compression motor, some say
you can and it actually will run better, well heres my facts on the matter, lets
say you have a stock spi with aprox 10:1 compression, now, atmospheric pressure
is 14.7psi at sea level, so where gunna use that, so when your motor intakes a
stroke of air and fuel an compresses it has turned that 14.7 and multiplied it
by 10, to 147psi.
So that was an easy one, now, lets say you stick a turbo on that motor and run
8psi of boost, now at peak boost you will have the 14.7 plus the 8psi of boost,
making 22.7 psi going into your motor on the intake stroke, now compress that by
10 and u have 227psi
Ok, so now we change pistons and lower the compression to 9:1 we run the same
boost of 8psi so we have the 22.7psi going in but only compressing it by 9 which
gives us 204.3psi, which is less than with stock compression, which means we
will make less power, this is where the common misconception comes in that
you can run more boost with a lower compression motor, well it is true, but your
making more boost to compensate for the lack of compression that your motor has.
you see, to get the same power out of the lower compression motor you would
have to run 10.5psi(10.522 to be exact) of boost, add the 14.7 which makes 25.22
and multiply that by 9 giving us the 227 which is the same amount of compression
at TDC as the stock compression motor.
Now, running 10.5psi of boost to get the same power is going to have drawbacks
you will not spool up as quickly because you have to spool to 10.5 psi rather
than 8 which isn t much but were talking 10th and hundredths of seconds in
racing.
It comes down to tuning, properly tuning a higher compression motor will
actually run better than a lower compression motor, you have more power in
off-boost situations and with the higher compression your turbo will actually
spool up quicker because of the force the exhaust is being released, now you may
think that it would be more work tuning the higher compression motor, but in
reality if your looking for the same amount of horsepower your going to have to
increase the boost in the lower compression motor to make up for it, and in
doing so the compression levels and detonation possibility will be equal in both
motors, so tuning is everything.
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manifolds
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Escort EXP
Escort RS Turbo
other custom manifolds will fit
http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html
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Turbo Fundamentals
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In order to under stand forced induction, we must understand how the turbo
works.
This section not completed
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What cars have what turbo?
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BUICK GNX 87 3.8L GAR TB0348
BUICK Monte Carlo/Regal 78-83 3.8L carbed GAR TB0348
BUICK Riviera 80-85 3.8L GAR TB0308
BUICK Grand National/T-Type 86-87 3.8L (Intercooled) GAR TB0348 (TA48)
BUICK Trans Am 89 3.8L GAR TB0348 (water)
BUICK Century 78 3.8L GAR TB0301
BUICK Century 79 3.8L GAR TB0304
BUICK Century 80 3.8L GAR TB0308
CHEVY Sprint 1.0L IHI RHB31
CHEVY Spectrum 85-90 1.5L IHI RHB521
CHRYSLER Conquest, Intercooled 87 2.6L MHI TD05
CHRYSLER Laser (Auto) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD04
CHRYSLER Laser (Manual) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD05H
CHRYSLER LeBaron 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER LeBaron 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER New Yorker 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER New Yorker 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
CHRYSLER Town & Country 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER Town & Country 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
CHRYSLER Charger/Shelby 87-90 2.2L GAR TB03 (water)
CHRYSLER Shelby CSX-Daytona/Baron GTC/Shadow ES 89-90 2.2L GAR TB03 VNT
(variable nozzle)
DODGE 600 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE 600 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Aries 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
DODGE Caravan 89-90 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Conquest (Intercooled) 87 2.6L MHI TD05
DODGE Daytona 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Daytona Shelby 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
DODGE Daytona Shelby 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Lancer 89 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Lancer 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Lancer 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Omni 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Shadow 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Shadow 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Shadow 87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Spirit 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
EAGLE Talon (Manual) 90-94 2.0L MHI TD05H (45 trim)
EAGLE Talon (Auto) 90-95 2.0L MHI TD04
FORD Mustang GT 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
FORD Mustang GT/T-bird 83-84 GAR (AiR) TB0344
*****FORD Probe GT 88-92 2.2L IHI RHB52W ******
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (auto) GAR (AiR) TB0344 (45 trim oil only)
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (Manual) GAR (AiR) TB03 60 trim (water-cooled)
FORD T-Bird 87-88 (water) IHI RHB52
FORD Fiesta 90+ 1.6L GAR T2
*******FORD Escort 84-86 IHI RHB5************
ISUZU MPR Truck 88-92 IHI RHB6-A
*******MAZDA 626, MX6 88-92 2.2L IHI RHB52W*********
*******MAZDA 323 GTX turbo 88-89 1.6L IHI RHB52W (water) ******
MERCEDES 300D, SDT, TD 78-84 3.0L GAR TA0301
MERCEDES 300SDL 78-83 3.0L GAR TA0301
MERCEDES 300SDL (Calif.) 86-87 3.0L GAR TB0359
MERCURY Capri 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
MERCURY Cougar 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
MERKUR XR4Ti 85-88 2.3L GAR TB0344
MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Auto) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD04
MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Manual) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD05H
MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Manual) 95-98 2.0L MHI T25 (45 trim)
MITSUBISHI Galant (Auto) 88-94 2.2L MHI TD04
MITSUBISHI Galant (Manual) 88-94 2.2L MHI TD05H
MITSUBISHI Starion (Intercooler) 85-87 2.6L MHI TD05
MITSUBISHI 3000GT VR4 - 2x MHI TD04H
PLYMOUTH Acclaim 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Caravelle 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Caravelle 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
PLYMOUTH Conquest, Intercooler 85-89 2.6L MHI TD05
PLYMOUTH Laser (Auto) 89-94 2.0L MHI TD04
PLYMOUTH Laser (Manual) 89-94 2.0L MHI TD05H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 87 2.2L GAR TB0335
PLYMOUTH Voyager 89-90 2.5L MHI TE04H
PONTIAC Sunbird GT 88-90 2.0L GAR T2
PONTIAC Sunbird GT 84-86 1.8L GAR T2
PONTIAC Grand Prix 89-90 3.1L GAR T25 (water)
SAAB 9000 (16V Intercooled) 87-88 2.0L GAR TB0356
SAAB 900 (16V Intercooled) 87 2.0L GAR TB0339 (Oilcld)
****SAAB 900 (16V Intercooled) 84-86 2.0L GAR TB0339 (Oilcld) ****
SAAB 9000 (16V Intercooled) 85-86 2.0L GAR TB0343
SAAB 900 (8V, APC) 82-84 2.0L GAR TB0321
VOLVO 200 82-84 2.3L GAR TB0313
VOLVO 740 89-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 740 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 760 89-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 760 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 780 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363
VOLVO 780 90 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 780 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 940 91-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 200 Watercooled Upgrade 82-84 2.3L GAR TB0368
VOLVO 740 (Oil Cooled) 83-85 2.3L GAR TB0326
VOLVO 740 (Watercooled) 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363
VOLVO 760 (Oil Cooled) 83-86 2.3L GAR TB0326
VOLVO 760 (Watercooled) 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363
VW Passat, 97+ (oil) 1.8L GAR GT15
GAR=Garrett=AiResearch, MHI=Mitsubishi Heavy industries, MIT=Mitsubishi
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Fuel systems
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Because we are adding air to the air side of the air fuel ratio with the turbo
we must also add a proportional amount of fuel. If there is not enough fuel to
compliment the extra air being forced into the cylinders a lean condition will
be created which will cause detonation. Detonation is the enemy on a
turbocharged car. Detonation is an uncontrolled, very forceful, explosion in the
cylinder that can be audible as knocking. If you want to know what detonation
sounds like, take a couple of small ball bearings and put them in an empty
aluminum soda can. Now shake the can vigorously and remember that sound. If you
should ever hear that sound while driving your car you should avoid the
condition (usually WOT, wide open throttle) that creates the sound until you can
ascertain its cause. Also be aware that a lean condition makes more heat. This
can burn pistons, piston rings, valves, and destroy spark plugs. The funny thing
is that, generally speaking, leaner fuel mixtures create more power. So we know
what can happen if there is a lean condition, what happens if we have a rich
mixture (more fuel than needed). Rich mixtures sap power, foul spark plugs and
oxygen sensors, and use more gas than need be. A rich mixture also runs a lot
cooler. Of course, nobody has ever blown up a piston by running rich. So as you
can see there is a trade off between running lean mixtures and getting maximum
horsepower at the risk of doing damage to engine internals, and running rich and
losing some horsepower but gaining quite a bit of reliability and safety. The
key to all of this is fuel and engine management and tuning.
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Different types of fuel systems
1) FMU (cheapest)
2) A-FMU, A-FPR, 24# injectors
3) MIC (MAF, injectors, chip)
4) AFC and S-AFC
5) MegaSquirt
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FMU
FMU stands for Fuel Management Unit. You will defiantly need this because it
adds more fuel into your cylinders when you boost. If you force more air into
the cylinders via a turbo, you must add more fuel! And how do we add more fuel?
There are a couple of methods. We can make the injectors shoot in more by
getting larger injectors, or we can increase the fuel pressure (easy way)
Without an FMU, your motor will blow up for sure! All FMUs have ratings, such as
12:1 or 8:1. What that means is, if its a 12:1, it will raise fuel pressure 12
PSI per 1 PSI of boost. So if you boost 7 PSI, then it will raise the fuel
pressure to 7 X 12 = 84 PSI. But you must remember the base pressure of 40psi.
Which would bring the pressure up to 124psi. But it really doesn t& When the
fuel pressure is raised, more fuel is added into the cylinders. Easy concept.
The stock escort fuel system will handle about 5psi safely (WITH A FMU. DON T BE
LIKE ME AND THINK YOU CAN PUT A TURBO ON WITH OUT AN FMU)
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FMU, A-FPR, 24# injectors
This method is better than just the FMU route. It is more customizable, and more
reliable then the FMU by its self is. Using a fuel pressure gauge and the O2
sensor, you can accurately tune the base pressure and the FMU rate.
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MIC (MAF, injectors, chip)
This is one of the better ways to go. By getting the MAF off of a larger motor,
like a 5.0, larger injectors and a chip, you can do more boost.
-Here is how it works. Our MAF (5vt limit at about 120hp) is calibrated for the
15#(1.9) or the 19# (SPI) injectors. The 5.0 MAF is calibrated for larger
injectors, and 4 more than we have& so, if you use the 5.0 MAF, it thinks its
still being used on the 8 stock 24# injectors. Since we only have 4 injectors,
we must double the bandwidth on them by switching to 48# injectors.. Get it?
Ok&. Now that we have taken care of that, the chip is to change the fuel and
ignition timing curves. The major setback we have is the ignition timing. The
stock system can deal with it up till about 5psi then things get iffy, and you
get detonation
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AFC and S-AFC
The piggyback systems take the stock MAF signal and modify it in order to use
larger injectors.
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MegaSquirt (MS)
This is the best setup in my opinion. It is completely stand-alone. This means
it gets rid of the stock PCM. You can customize your fuel and timing maps on
your laptop. You MUST have EDIS to make this work. Some of the 1.8 guys adapted
the EDIS to their motors. You do not need a MAF sensor because the MS has its
own built in MAP sensor.
All you need is the MS and a laptop. You must make your own harness because the
MS needs its own system of sensors.
http://www.megasquirt.info/manual/mtabcon.htm
here are some of the features of the MS:
-Completely customizable fuel maps
-Completely customizable timing maps
-with mod for use with EDIS
-can use ANY injector...ANY
-eliminates the pcm and stock harness totally
-gauge readings come thru laptop
-log mode(suggest changes to maps)
-2 rpm switches
-uses a MAP sensor so you don’t have to worry about the MAF ever again getting
heat soaked, or who wants blow/draw thru.
-revlimiter
the mod that just came out has these features:
-launch control/revlimiter
-nos control/timer
-water spray controller
-Dual fuel tables + 12x12 ignition table
-Knock control
Use this link if you need to convert pressures that aren`t listed below.
http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/boost_converter.shtml
Here is the conversion chart you ll need for the MS
PSI in-Hg (vac)
KPA
-12.28 -25.00
16.657
-11.79 -24.00
20.036
-11.30 -23.01
23.414
-10.81 -22.01
26.793
-10.31 -20.99
30.240
-9.33 -19.00
36.997
-8.84 -18.00
40.375
-8.35 -17.00
43.754
-7.86 -16.00
47.132
-7.37 -15.01
50.511
-6.88 -14.01
53.889
-6.38 -12.99
57.336
-5.40 -10.99
64.093
-4.42 -9.00
70.850
-3.93 -8.00
74.234
-3.44 -7.00
77.607
-2.95 -6.01
80.985
-2.46 -5.01
84.364
-1.96 -3.99
87.811
-1.47 -3.00
91.166
-0.98 -2.00
94.552
-0.49 -1.00
97.947
0.00
0.00
101.325
1.00
2.04
108.220
2.00
4.07
115.115
3.00
6.11
122.009
4.00
8.14
128.904
5.00
10.18
135.799
6.00
12.22
142.694
7.00
14.25
149.588
8.00
16.29
156.483
9.00
18.32
163.378
10.00 20.36
170.273
11.00 22.40
177.167
12.00 24.43
184.062
13.00 26.47
190.957
14.00 28.50
197.852
15.00 29.70
204.746
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5th injector
Extra Injectors
Components Required
-Stock Injectors
-1 or 2 Extra Injectors
-Auxiliary Injector Controller
This option is the least reliable and least precise. The extra injectors add
fuel by spraying it directly into the intake charge pipe before the throttle
body. Their own injector controller controls the extra injectors. With this
option, fuel pooling up inside the intake manifold can happen and equal amounts
of fuel will not get into each cylinder. This will create different air fuel
ratios in each cylinder. This is a quite simple setup. The injectors run off of
12(14) volts just like everything else. You can just hook them up to a switch if
you wanted to.
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Now you get how a turbo system works right? Lets review.
1. Exhaust gases from the turbo is blown into the turbo.
2. The turbo is like a pump; it uses the exhaust gases (free energy) to pump
air.
3. This pumped air is then blown into some pipes that connect to the intake
manifold which forces the air into the cylinders.
4. This pumped air from the turbo is HOT, so we use an intercooler to cool down
this air slightly before it enters the engine.
5. The blow off valve is used to relieve pressure from the turbo when you let go
of the throttle when under boost.
6. YOU HAVE GOOD FUEL MANAGMENT
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BOV and Wastegates
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The blow off valve is a unit that goes on the pressure side of the intake.
When you drop the throttle, the boosted air has to go somewhere. If you don t
have a BOV, you will end up buying a new turbo. Buying an adjustable BOV is a
good idea. Depending on how much boost you run you can make it open at different
times
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External Wastegate
The external wastegate is used for vehicles using massive boost. It is just like
a bov except it is used for dumping excess exhaust for regulating boost levels.
Most turbos have internal Wastegates.
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Manual Boost Controller (MBC)
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If you want to adjust the PSI you are running at without changing the internal
wastegate spring, want to quickly change the level of boost, or have an internal
wastegate and want to raise the boost level then you will need a boost
controller. A boost controller works by preventing the wastegate from sensing
any boost, and thus opening, until the boost controller senses that the boost
level it is set at has been reached. In order for a boost controller to work you
cannot set it lower than the PSI level of the wastegate spring. For example, if
you have a wastegate with a 10 PSI spring the boost controller will not work at
any level under 10 PSI.
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Blow/Draw Thru
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This has been argued over for a long time. Blow thru is where you have the MAF
on the pressure side of the intake. Draw thru is where the MAF or VAF is on the
vacuum side.
Both setups have their pros/cons
Note: the MAF in this setup should be placed at least 6 from the TB, and the BOV
should be placed at least 6 or more downstream of the MAF. If these things are
too close it will cause turbulence in the intake and result in an improper MAF
reading.
Blow thru. Pro s
- Fastest A/F ratio changes
- More accurate
- Eliminates 99% of idle problems
- Meters exactly how much air is going into the motor, not how much is in the
intake.
- Easier to use BOV
- Can use atmospheric BOV
- Totally eliminates recirc setups
Blow thru cons.
- MAF more prone to heat soak (can be minimized by using a good intercooler)
- If not properly placed on the intake side can cause hesitation in motor.
- Can be hard to hook up.
- Can get oil in MAF from turbo leakage.
Draw thru pros
- Can be used with the recirc setup if you want a deadly quiet setup.
Draw thru cons
-if the MAF is set too far from the TB, it will make the motor think its getting
more air than it is and it will go into panic mode, or not idle correctly. IE:
if you start your car, its sucking air thru the entire intake system. By the
time the intake pressure equalizes the MAF is just starting to take a reading.
The PCM will freak out because it doesn t think its getting enough air and will
go into retarded idle mode. When the motor spins up, it creates more vacuum in
the intake, when the MAF equalizes and the motor spins down, it still takes a
second for the intake to completely equalize. Thus making it sort of like a
sea-saw affect with the MAF and PCM. Get it? Its like sucking thru a 10 hose.
When you stop sucking the air is still moving thru the hose and blows allover
your face. The same thing is happening here. When the throttle is closed the air
is still moving and the MAF is still reading. By the time it figures it out you
have been running extremely rich for the last few seconds.
-I used both methods and I think blow thru is the best.
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PCV
Positive Crankcase Ventilation
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The positive crankcase ventilation system exists to relieve positive air
pressure from the crankcase. Pressure in the crankcase is created by piston ring
blow by and by the up and down motion of the pistons (just as the piston seals
the top of the combustion chamber it seals the bottom of the cylinder, pulling
air in on the compression and exhaust stroke, pushing air on the intake and
power stroke). In order to relieve this pressure, a vacuum pressure sucks the
pressure out of the crankcase through the PCV system. If the pressure is not
vented piston ring and piston ring land damage can occur from the rings being
jostled around as the piston is drawn down towards the crankcase, fighting
against the pressure. In a turbo application this system must be modified or it
will not work. Before figuring out how to modify the system it is a good idea to
see how the stock system works. Below is a diagram of the stock PCV system:
The problem when a turbocharger is added is that the intake pipe and intake
manifold become pressurized. If the fitting on the valve cover is still
connected to the pressurized intake pipe it will pressurize the crankcase too.
At the same time, the PCV valve will close when pressure is exerted on the top
half of the valve, sealing the crankcase. If no modifications are made to the
system a pressurized and sealed crankcase will occur when the boost kicks in,
this is the worst possible time to have a sealed and pressurized crankcase.
Air flows through the crankcase and out of the PCV port which now has a plastic
90* barbed fitting in it (no PCV valve). From the PCV port, the air flows into
the side of the catch can and out of the top of the can. Air then flows back to
the pre-turbo intake pipe. A 90* fitting is not required here because air
flowing across the opening of the fitting in the intake pipe will draw air out
in the direction of air flow (the same reason water comes out the top of a straw
when it is submerged in a glass of water and you blow across the top of it).
This routing is not a closed circuit system with the only drive for the system
being provided by vacuum.
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Turbo Timer
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A turbo timer is used to keep the engine running for a set amount of time even
though the key has been removed from the ignition. This is done to keep oil, and
water if applicable, running through the turbo to allow the turbo to cool down
without you having to sit in the car to manually turn it off. The turbo timers
come with security features that prevent someone from jumping in your running
car after you`ve gotten out. These security features usually work by turning off
the engine if the parking brake is released or if the clutch pedal is depressed.
Most timers have circuitry that will allow a car alarm to arm even with the
engine running. A turbo timer works by intercepting the ignition switch signal
to the computer, keeping the ignition on when the ignition switch is off. If you
have an oil temperature gauge it is easy to judge how long the turbo timer
should be set for. The harder the turbo has been run or the hotter the oil the
longer the timer should be set for, usually 1-2 minutes is sufficient
TEARMS
PCM- Power train Control Module
EDIS- Electronic Distributor Ignition System
MAF- Mass Air Flow Sensor
FPR- Fuel Pressure Regulator
A-FPR- Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
FMU- Fuel Management Unit
A-FMU- Adjustable Fuel Management Unit
MS- MegaSquirt
AFC- Air/Fuel Controller
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LINKS
FUEL STUFF
FMU - Vortech
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/
PUMP - Walbro
http://www.walbro.com/
STANDALONE STUFF
Apexi
http://www.apexi-usa.com/
MegaSquirt
http://www.megasquirt.info/manual/mtabcon.htm
BOV
Greddy
http://www.greddy.com/
HKS
http://www.hksusa.com/
Blitz
http://www.blitz-na.com/
RANDOM STUFF
Vacuum Manifold
http://www.mcmaster.com/
References:
Thanks to:
http://www.cse.uconn.edu/~yelevich/turbo/turbo.h